Prusik Peak - West Ridge (5.7) - 09.22.07 - 09.23.07

In what is looking like the last climbing trip of the year, Kyle, Kristy, Brian and I went to climb the west ridge of Prusik Peak. Kyle and I had attempted this climb last year on Oct. 15, but were faced with high winds once we reached the ridge and decided to bail. We hoped for a little better weather this time.

The original plan was to leave Friday night after work so that we could get up early and try to get a permit to camp in the upper Enchantments on Saturday night. While this would mean a longer hike in on Saturday, it would allow us to have a little more leisurely start on Sunday and a shorter hike out. We had to amend our plan when I fell ill on Thursday and still wasn't feeling well enough on Friday to leave. Everyone else was nice enough to wait until Saturday morning to see if I felt better, and if I didn't then Kyle and Brian would go while Kristy took care of me. I woke up Saturday morning fever-free, so I decided to give it a shot.

Leaving Saturday morning meant we had to scratch the idea of camping in the upper Enchantments and fall back on our original, original plan to camp at Snow Lakes. So, this meant a 6 mile hike on Saturday and then 4+ more on Sunday to get to the climb. The 6 mile hike is pretty straight-forward. It does have a decent amount of elevation gain and quite a few switchbacks, but it's not too bad. We didn't leave the parking lot until about noon and I think we were to the camp by about 4:30 PM. We setup camp, ate some alpine mac and cheese and not too long after dinner we were in bed.

Up early, we were on the trail by 5:15 AM. It was crisp and cold. Some of our water bottles even had a bit of ice in them. By about 7:15 or so we were were standing at Lake Vivian with an excellent view of Prusik Peak. After hiking and scrambling for about 45 minutes were at the balanced rock at the base of the climb. The sun had not yet hit the west ridge so it was still pretty cold. Leading out on the first pitch I was wearing a long-sleeve shirt, Marmot DriClime Windshirt, down jacket, hat, gloves and wool socks crammed inside my climbing shoes. It was cold. My feet were practically blocks of ice while I belayed Kyle up. I don't think it was until the end of the second pitch that the sun finally started to hit us. Once in the sun, it didn't take long for me to peal of the down jacket and remove the gloves.


Lake Vivian


Prusik Peak from Lake Vivian


Some friendly visitors


Cold climbin'

I think we did the ridge in 6 pitches. You could definitely do it in 5 or less, but I led a pitch up a lichen-filled crack that clearly was not on route. This got us up to where we could have just scrambled to, but that wouldn't have been nearly as fun. Kyle led the last pitch to the summit, shimmying his way up an unprotected chimney. The unprotected 5.7 friction slab on pitch 3 was really pretty straight-forward. By Darrington standards it felt like 5.5.


Kyle after the 5.7 friction slab


Oh the exposure!


Climbing a lichen-filled crack. First ascent?

Kristy and Brian summited shortly after us and we chilled for a bit and then prepared for a long descent. Two double-rope rappels got us down far enough to where we could scramble back over to the balanced rock. We gathered our things, ate some food and then scrambled back down to Lake Vivian. My malfunctioning SteriPen purifier was still not working and we were too thirsty to mess around, so we just drank the water from the Lake. No negative symptoms to report as of this posting. By this time it was about 4 PM and we still had 10 miles to hike out. We knew we would be breaking out the headlamps in a few hours.


Kyle on the summit


We all made it


Kyle does a jig on the summit

The hike out was for the most part brutal. It was somewhat pleasant before then sun went down, but then it was just a long slog. We were at camp by about 6:30 PM. We broke that down and kept on hauling out. Kyle and Brian were to the car a bit ahead of Kristy and I, but I think we arrived at about 10:30 PM. Exhausted, and still with a 2+ hour drive back to Seattle. And this is supposed to be fun?

Forbidden Peak - East Ridge Direct (5.8) - 09.08.07 - 09.09.07

The weekend after climbing Sahale, Kyle and I hopped in the car and headed back to the same area to attempt the East Ridge Direct route on Forbidden Peak. In order to camp in Boston Basin, which is how you access Forbidden, you have to have a permit. Permits are free, but are only issued in person at the Marblemount ranger station. To give ourselves a good shot at securing a permit, we decided to leave Seattle at about 5:30 AM, figuring that would put us at the Marblemount ranger station at about 8 AM, just 1 hour after they open.

I arrived at Kyle's place around 5:15 AM, and after recovering some of Kyle's possessions that were apparently swiped by a swift sunrise thief, or more likely a drunken hobo, we were on the road. Right on schedule.

We made pretty good time and arrived at the Marblemount ranger station slightly ahead of schedule. A large group of middle-aged men standing out front had us worried for our permit probability, but we were relieved to find out that they were going to El Dorado. With permit in hand we continued on to the trailhead.

After some last-minute packing and trip to the bathroom, we were on our way. The trail is fairly overgrown in parts and rather steep at times, but all-in-all the approach is not too bad. As best I can remember, we were in Boston Basin about 4 hours after leaving the car. Kyle and I wasted at least and hour of time and loads of energy looking for the elusive high camp. We practically climbed the whole darn peak looking for it, only to eventually retreat back to what we originally thought was the low camp, but ultimately discovered IS the high camp. An altimeter or some half-way descent map and compass skills probably could have solved this one.

We relaxed during the afternoon by snoozing, snacking and playing some Cosmic Whimpout. We chatted with a couple parties coming off of Forbidden, including one that did the East Ridge Direct. Hearing their report got us psyched for the climb! We threw down our salmon and pasta dinner, got our packs ready and hit the sack.

I'll let Kyle take it from here. See his trip report at: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=723716

It was a great trip with some fun climbing. The exposure was incredible! I didn't snap many pics, but here's what I got:


A look a the route. Single gendarme on the right, route goes left from there.


Gulp


The view

East Wilmans Spire - 08.18.07

Kyle and I climbed East Wilmans Spire Saturday. It was a fun trip that challenged our alpine skills in a number of different ways. The crux was definitely in the approach and the descent. The actual roped climbing was fairly straight forward. It was fun to climb a peak that sees less traffic than some other peaks we have done. For a full trip report, including pictures, see: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=716108

Here are four pics:

Parents come to town - 07.26.07 - 07.31.07

My mom and dad came for a visit. Their stay included a mix of leisure, adventure and lots of good food. We spent most of the time in the city but also got out to Whidbey Island for a hike. We went to the Seattle Aquarium, Pike Place Market and much more. Mom, dad and I went to the Hank III concert at El Corazon on 07.28 and had a wild time! It was fun seeing Adam on stage with the crowd going crazy.




Dad in the condo they rented


Went for a walk on the Seattle waterfront



Dad enjoying the view from Whidbey Island


Hiking on Whidbey

Tieton River Rocks - 07.21.07 - 07.22.07

To avoid the rain that was falling on most of the state, Kyle and I hit the road for Tieton River Rocks to do some climbing. Closest town is Naches, WA, which is about 6 miles from the crag. The landscape had the feel of a different state for sure. We found the climbing to be a bit harder than the ratings suggested. It's mostly crack climbing on basalt columns. Pretty sustained and lots of fun!


Gear


Mush Maker - 5.7+ ** (Crack to the left of the small roof; Seemed a bit sandbagged)


Royal Columns crag


Kyle setting up a rappel after climbing Ed's Jam - 5.8 *** (@ The Bend crag)


Kyle crossing the suspension bridge that leads to The Bend

Three O'Clock Rock - Silent Running (5.9+)

Kyle and I went climbing in Darrinton, WA on 6/23. We climbed Silent Running (5.9+), an interesting slab climb with some very runout sections. The runout parts were mostly easy climbing, but they presented some mental challenges. The difficult sections were fairly well protected. Six pitches total, we swapped leads the whole way. We intended to climb Dreamer (5.9+) at Green Giant Buttress on Sunday, but a bad forecast and rain on Saturday evening forced us out of there. We had the tent up and everything, but decided to bail. Green Giant Buttress is the big wall viewable in a few of the pics.

Green Giant Buttress from 3 O'clock Rock


Kyle on Silent Running with Green Giant Buttress behind


The Green Giant again


Sloan Peak from 3 O'clock Rock


Kyle ready to rappel

Backcountry Skiing - Skyline Bowl

Dan telemark skiing in Skyline Bowl, Stevens Pass.

Day Of

Some pictures from the day of my injury. Other than the tear, it was a beautiful day in the backcountry. Location is Skyline Bowl by Heather Ridge.

Laid Up

I tore my MCL while skiing about two weeks ago. It has been a difficult adjustment to get used to having to be so sedentary. I realize now that I took for granted the ability to run, walk without a limp and climb stairs two at a time. I find myself looking longingly at people running and riding their bikes. I now move with a crutch, appreciate handicap bathrooms, take elevators when possible and get in and out of my car like a senior citizen. It's not much fun.