I arrived at Kyle's place around 5:15 AM, and after recovering some of Kyle's possessions that were apparently swiped by a swift sunrise thief, or more likely a drunken hobo, we were on the road. Right on schedule.
We made pretty good time and arrived at the Marblemount ranger station slightly ahead of schedule. A large group of middle-aged men standing out front had us worried for our permit probability, but we were relieved to find out that they were going to El Dorado. With permit in hand we continued on to the trailhead.
After some last-minute packing and trip to the bathroom, we were on our way. The trail is fairly overgrown in parts and rather steep at times, but all-in-all the approach is not too bad. As best I can remember, we were in Boston Basin about 4 hours after leaving the car. Kyle and I wasted at least and hour of time and loads of energy looking for the elusive high camp. We practically climbed the whole darn peak looking for it, only to eventually retreat back to what we originally thought was the low camp, but ultimately discovered IS the high camp. An altimeter or some half-way descent map and compass skills probably could have solved this one.
We relaxed during the afternoon by snoozing, snacking and playing some Cosmic Whimpout. We chatted with a couple parties coming off of Forbidden, including one that did the East Ridge Direct. Hearing their report got us psyched for the climb! We threw down our salmon and pasta dinner, got our packs ready and hit the sack.
I'll let Kyle take it from here. See his trip report at: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=723716
It was a great trip with some fun climbing. The exposure was incredible! I didn't snap many pics, but here's what I got:
A look a the route. Single gendarme on the right, route goes left from there.
Gulp
The view
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